An Open Window: An Opportunity to Escape?

Within a few hours of his arrival in his new home, Caspar the kitten went missing. Certain that he couldn’t have ventured outside, but baffled as to what sort of hiding place he could have found in a modestly sized flat, we searched high and low, to no avail. Something eventually led us into the kitchen, and then to the upright fridge-freezer. There was a small gap between the back of the appliance and the wall … he couldn’t have, could he? Sure enough, on pulling out the unit, we discovered our new kitten curled up in a space within the backless freezer, its electrical innards all the while buzzing away ominously. This cautionary tale goes to show that you should take the same stringent precautions to make your home safe for a new kitten or cat that you would for a toddler — even more so, since toddlers lack the advanced escapology skills of a cat.

Electrical Appliance and Thread Spell ‘Danger’

The tale of Caspar the kitten also highlights the advisability of introducing a kitten or cat to only one room of your home for the first day or so, although this strategy may not always be practical if its food and water bowls, as well as its litter tray, are in a different room. However many rooms you decide to give your new feline access to on its arrival, you should at least preempt it streaking off through windows and doors by making sure that they are firmly shut. Another from the annals of Caspar’s kittenhood tells of how he managed to push up, by squeezing under, a first-floor sash window that was open at the bottom by about an inch. Having startled him as he was sitting on the windowsill enjoying the view, he reacted by leaping down into the garden, 5 metres (around 16 feet) below. Thankfully, apart from everyone concerned having had a fright, no damage was done, but many cats who suffer similar falls are not so lucky: because they may have been snoozing peacefully when they slipped off a windowsill, they may not be able to alert their senses in time to ensure that they land on their feet. Alternatively, even if they manage to land on all four paws, the force of their impact on landing may be so great that their legs buckle and break and their jaw may hit the ground and be smashed. therefore crucial that you’re especially vigilant about your cat’s safety if you live in a high-rise flat or if your home has a balcony and, if your cat persists on sleeping on a windowsill, it would be wise to fit some sort of barrier — perhaps a trellis — along it to prevent a fall.

Block your Cat’s Access to an Open Fireplace

Because it is not unusual for panicked kittens to shoot up fireplaces, if there are any open ones in your house, either place a fireguard around them or stuff the chimney flues with newspaper. In addition, try to tuck any trailing electrical cables out of the way of a cat, who may be tempted to exercise its teeth and gums by gnawing on them. When it is feeling brave enough to explore every inch of your home, a kitten in particular will leap onto any available surface, so it would be sensible to take the precaution of temporarily stowing any breakable objects, such as vases, out of harm’s way. Don’t leave threaded sewing needles where a cat could gain access to them either: it could be tempted to chew, or play with, the dangling thread, presenting the very real danger that it may swallow the needle; rubber bands can also wreak internal havoc if ingested. Remember, too, that a decorated Christmas tree represents a challenging activity centre to a cat. Speaking from rueful experience, unless you shut the door on your Christmas tree at night, you may wake up to a scene of devastation, with glass decorations smashed to smithereens (and a cat with bleeding feet), sodden piles of regurgitated lametta strewn all over the floor and possibly also widespread damage caused by a toppled tree.

Try to scrutinise your kitchen from your cat’s vantage point: if a saucepan or kettle boils over, for example, your feline could be splashed and scalded by the boiling liquid. Another danger to cats lies in common household chemicals like bleach, which could burn or poison them, so keep them out of your cat’s way, preferably in a cupboard. The same goes for any caustic or corrosive liquids, such as paint-thinners, paraffin, creosote and pesticides. But be warned: although he cannot rival Caspar’s talent for getting himself into hair-raising scrapes, the ever-inquisitive Melchior has perfected the art of opening the doors of certain cupboards with his paw and nose, so make sure that any cupboards which you don’t want your cat rooting around in have firmly sprung hinges or magnetic catches and always keep the doors of washing machines and tumble-driers shut.

Note, too, that certain plants, including mistletoe, ivy, poinsettia, rhododendrons and azaleas, oleander, Philodendron, Caladium, Dieffenbachia, Prunus laurocerasus and Solanum capiscastrum, can poison cats, so don’t grow any of these inside and reduce the risk of a house plant being nibbled by providing an indoor cat with its own pot of grass.

If you are bringing home a kitten, it is important that you provide it with some toys to play with: play is a vital part of a kitten’s development, whereby it practises its chasing and pouncing skills. Playing with your kitten will also strengthen the bond between you, as well as being great fun for all of the game’s participants, be they human or feline. The imaginations of older cats, too, are often stimulated by a toy mouse to ‘hunt’, particularly if they are indoor cats who neither have access to the real thing nor much opportunity to exercise. Although, for example, our pair of twelve-year-olds have reached the age when they no longer always spring into action when a thing-on-a-string is dangled in front of their noses, toy mice materialise overnight in spots where once there were none, evidence that our felines are not too old to indulge in nocturnal games of cat and mouse.

The manufacturers of cat toys are constantly supplying pet shops with ever-more ingenious products, from mice on strings and springs to balls containing bells. Many fabric mice are stuffed with dried catnip (Nepeta cataria), a plant that sends many cats into paroxysms of ecstasy, making such mice irresistibly attractive playthings. There’s no need to spend money on your feline’s entertainment, however: a table- tennis ball will provide many fun-packed sessions of high-octane exercise and excitement, as will a crumpled-up paper bag, while a cotton reel tied to a piece of string — with you attached to the other end to jerk it into action and pull around — for your cat to stalk and pounce on will provide it with all of the exhilarating thrill of the chase.

Before introducing any new toy to your cat, first ensure that it is an object with which a cat can safely play. Make sure that any mouse ‘eyes’, for example, are securely attached, that there are no protruding pins or staples that could cause injury that a rubber toy isn’t small enough to be swallowed and also be vigilant about preventing your cat from ingesting lengths of string or wool. Note, too, that most cats are terrified, rather than intrigued by, clockwork or motorised toys.

Pet shops stock an array of feline beds, from traditional wicker baskets to washable oversized cushions and bean-bags to fake-fur nests and igloos. If you buy a basket-type bed, your comfort-loving cat will appreciate some extra padding and insulation in the form of an old blanket, which should be washed regularly, just as the bed itself should be kept clean. A cheaper provisional alternative is to make a cat bed from a sturdy cardboard box by cutting off any flaps, placing it on its base (cut out a section at the front to act as a doorway) or side and lining it with newspaper topped with a blanket. As an extra welcoming touch, particularly for a kitten, who may miss its

Mother and littermates’ body heat, you could slip an electric heating pad (for safety’s sake, one designed specially for felines) or hot-water bottle filled with warm, but not boiling, water under the blanket, but place it at the side, rather than centrally, so that the cat has a choice of a warm or cold spot to curl up on.

Think carefully about where to place your prospective feline’s bed: you may be tempted to position it at the hub of family life so that it feels included and you can continue to admire it while it sleeps, but this will probably not suit the cat’s need to feel private and safe when it abandons itself to unconsciousness. It is usually better to position the bed in a quiet corner where it can sleep undisturbed. In addition, try to choose a draught-free spot so that your cat won’t become chilly — test for cat-level draughts by getting down on your hands and knees — and if this is by a radiator or gets some sun during the day, so much the better: cats adore luxuriating in comforting warmth as they sleep.

Be warned, however, that as your cat gains in confidence, it may ignore the bed that you have so considerately provided, instead preferring a snoozing place of its own choice, such as an armchair or your own bed.

Grooming your cat will lessen the frequency with which it vomits up furballs, too, as well as giving you the opportunity regularly to check for fleas and skin problems. Two types of cat comb are typically sold by pet shops: ones with short teeth of identical length for shorthairs and others with long teeth interspersed with shorter ones for longhairs. Both normally have plastic handles with fingerholds moulded into them to give the human groomer a good grip. In addition, if you are anticipating the arrival of a longhaired feline, you may like to invest in a soft-bristled cat brush with which to give your cat’s coat a final smoothing, while an old toothbrush is ideal for brushing its facial fur.

Claw-clippers are usually a prerequisite for an indoor cat, who, unlike a freely wandering feline, will not have the opportunity to keep its front claws in trim (although it will pull off its back claws with its incisor teeth once they have outlived their usefulness) by walking on hard surfaces or stropping them against wooden objects. Even if you provide your indoor cat with a scratching post, it still may not indulge in regular enough stropping sessions to shorten its claws adequately, which is when a human wielding a pair of clippers — either ones designed specifically for felines or human toenail-clippers — should step in to provide assistance.

Finally, consult your vet about maintaining your feline’s dental health. Depending on your cat’s age and diet, you may be advised to clean its teeth regularly, using a plastic finger brush and toothpaste that has been specially formulated for cats (human toothpaste is unsuitable). Although you may scoff at the notion, the alternative may be that your cat’s teeth become decayed (having paid a vast sum to have two of Melchior’s teeth extracted by the vet under general anaesthetic, I have now become an assiduous brusher of our cats‘ teeth).

Marbled Headstander

Abramites microcephalus 130 mm 5 in. South America : slow-moving waters. A larger, stockier fish than its relatives. Seven or eight broad dark bands cross the body vertically, the central band continuing across the dorsal and ventral fins. The other fins are yellow-brown. The head is very small, and a dark band crosses the eye obliquely. A shy fish, but has a reputation of being a fin-nipper and eater of soft-leaved plants. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: worms preferred, and greenstuffs. Breeding: no details available.

Striped Headstander; Striped Anostomus

Anostomus anostomus 140 mm 51- in. South America : slow- moving waters. Has a cigar-shaped body. Three broad, parallel, dark bands run horizontally down the length of the body ; spaces between the bands are yellow-gold. The fins are red and the mouth small. Rests in a vertical position. Temperature: 24°C (75°F). Diet: all foods including vegetable matter. Breeding: no details available.

Spotted Headstander

Chilodus punctatus 75 mm 3 in. South America : slow-moving waters. Not quite so deep-bodied as the Marbled Headstander. The scales have dark spots giving a checkered appearance. A dark line runs from the snout and continues through the eye to the gill cover through to the caudal fin. The large, square-shaped dorsal fin has a black blotch. The eye is red. Swims head down. Shy, but may quarrel with its own species. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: all foods, including greenstuffs. Breeding: no details available.

Banded Leporinus; Striped Leporinus

Leporinus fasciatus 300 mm 114 in. South America : slow-moving waters. Has a long, cylindrical body, yellow. in colour and ringed with several dark bands beginning through the eye and ending at the caudal fin. The name Leporinus refers to the shape of the mouth, which is hare- like (Leporinus is Latin for a young hare). These fishes are good jumpers, so a glass cover is obligatory. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: must contain greenstuffs, otherwise soft-leaved plants will suffer. Breeding: no information available.

Night Tetra; Flagtailed Prochilodus

Prochilodus insignis 250 mm 10 in. South America : various waters. Has a silver body with a bluish-green sheen. The caudal and anal fins have horizontal dark blue and white stripes. The dorsal fin may have blue stripes. The other fins are reddish. This fish is an excellent jumper and prefers to be in a shoal. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: green foods and some live foods. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Characidae

A small group of African fishes closely related to the Characidae. Distichodus and Nannaethiops are the most commonly kept species; others are too large or aggressive.

Distichodus

Distichodus lusosso 330 mm 13 in. Central Africa : various waters. A magnificent specimen fish for the large aquarium. Red-gold colouring with the dark-edged scales individually picked out. Six or seven transverse dark stripes cross the body at equal intervals. The fins are bright red, with the caudal fin edged with black. Has a long snout. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: live foods preferred, but will accept dried foods and vegetable matter, including soft- leaved plants. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

One-striped African Characin.

Nannaethiops unitaeniatus 65 mm 21 in. Central Africa : various waters. A silvery-yellow fish with a dark horizontal line, surmounted with gold, running from the snout to the caudal fin. Females are deeper in the body. Males may have red fins, particularly dorsal and anal fins, during the breeding period. Peaceful, often shy. Temperature: 24^°C (75 F). Diet: all foods. Comes out of hiding for worms. Breeding: prolific.

Hatchet Fishes

These are hatchet-shaped, deep- bodied fishes, strongly compressed laterally. They can fly short distances across the water surface, using fins resembling those of the Flying Fish.

Marbled Hatchetfish Carnegie//a strigata 65 mm 2¹1 in. South America : slow-moving waters. The fish’s deep body shape is necessary to accommodate the enlarged muscles that control the movement of the well- developed pectoral fins. A silver fish with attractive marbled patterning below a single, gold horizontal stripe. A glass cover on the tank is essential. Temperature: 26^°C (79^°F). Diet: insects and floating foods. Breeding: possible, but no information published.

Common Hatchetfish Gasteropelecus sternicla 65 mm 21 in. South America : slow-moving waters. A plain, silver fish, with all the physical features of the Marbled Hatchet- fish except the marbled patterning. A dark horizontal line extends from behind the gill cover to the caudal fin. The Silver Hatchetfish (G. levis) is almost identical, but may have a dark blotch at the base of the dorsal fin. A surface dweller. Temperature: 26^°C (79^°F). Diet: insects, floating foods. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Half-lined Hemiodus; Silver Hemiodus; Flying Swallow

Hemiodopsis (formerly Hemiodus) semitaeniatus 200 mm 71 in. South America : various waters. A very streamlined, silver fish. A dark spot is situated on the flank between the dorsal and adipose fins. After a gap, a dark line runs into the caudal fin, following a downward direction midway through the lower lobe. A fast swimmer, and loves a shoaling existence. Very attractive when young but grows rapidly. Temperature: 24°C (75°F), or slightly lower. Diet: all foods. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Pencil Fishes

During recent years, the genus Nannostomus has been the subject of some re-classification with, first the Poecilolnzycon division being created and, then the genus Nannolnzycon being suggested for all fishes in this group. All Pencilfishes have small mouths, but not all have adipose fins; again, some, hut not all, swim at an oblique angle. Males constantly `threaten’ each other with a fine display of fin stretching, and they similarly perform in front of the females. The Pencilfishes have a family characteristic of nocturnal coloration, and the aquarist may be surprised to see them looking different early in the morning; descriptions in the text refer to normal daylight colours.

Golden Pencilfish; One-lined Pencilfishes

Nannostomus beckfordi 50 mm 2 in. South America : jungle streams. Several attempts have been made to sub-divide this species further on a colour-pattern basis. The golden-bodied form with a single, dark horizontal line, red anal fin and red lower caudal fin has been known as N. beckfordi annmalus. The form with a red band alongside the dark band, and red at the base of the caudal fin, may be known as N. beckfordi aripirangensis. There is also N. beckfordi beckfordi, the Golden Pencilfish, measuring 65 mm (21 in.) long. Males often spar with each other. Temperature: 26°C C (79°F). Diet: all suitably proportioned foods. Breeding: adults are egg eaters. Sometimes water conditions do not favour development of the eggs.

Dwarf Pencilfish

Nannostomus marginatus 38 mm 11 in. South America : jungle streams. A shorter, stockier fish than other species. The upper half of the body is gold, the lower half silver. A broad dark band, edged above with red, runs from the snout to the caudal fin. Another two black lines parallel this band on either side. The dorsal and anal fins are red, edged in black; the ventral fins are white with a red patch. Temperature: 26^°C (79^°F). Diet: all foods. Breeding:: adults are egg eaters.

Three-lined Pencilfish

Nanno‑stomus trifasciatus 50mm 2 in. South America : jungle streams. A ’stretched’ version of the Dwarf Pencilfish. Other differences occur in the colour pattern of the fins : the base of the caudal fin has two red patches separated by an over-run of the body colour. The dorsal, anal and ventral fins are clear with red patches. Temperature: 26^°C (79^°F). Diet: all foods. Breeding: possible, but more difficult than other Pencilfishes, because natural waters are very high in humus content.

You’ll also need cat litter, and if your cat or kitten is already trained to use a litter tray, remember to ask its breeder or owner which type of litter it has been used to. We neglected to do this, and although we’d shown the new arrivals the litter tray, they weren’t keen to enter it, after a day of leg-crossing finally leaving a deposit or two overnight on the earthy surface of a large plant pot. Flummoxed, we contacted the owner of the cat sanctuary for advice, and it transpired that they’d been used to a granule- type litter, whereas we’d provided them with an alien, fuller’s-earth-based product. The litter was changed and the problem was solved.

If they aren’t already familiar with a litter tray, most kittens and cats instinctively understand their purpose and need only to be shown its location, although as an educative measure you could always lift your feline into the tray, gently hold its front paws and then make a scratching motion with them.

With your special skill as a door-opener, are you prepared to be miaowed at every time, day or night that your cat wants to be let in or out? If not, and you don’t want to restrict your cat’s movements, fitting a cat flap into a wall or door (for which some DIY expertise will be required) is probably the answer. Many types of cat flap are sold by pet shops, all of which operate on the hinged-flap principle, with most featuring a catch that shuts the flap should you wish to keep your cat inside. Some variants are magnet-operated, with a magnet in the cat flap whose polarity corresponds to one that the cat wears on its collar, giving it its personal pass key and preventing strange cats from invading the house. For easy feline access, a cat flap should be situated no higher than 6 centimetres (around 2%2 inches) above ground level.

Outdoor cats can strop their claws on fences and trees, but unless you provide an indoor cat with a scratching post, it will be forced to turn its attention to your cherished furniture. Your options are either to improvise, by, perhaps, giving your cat a log of wood (one that won’t splinter) to scratch at, or to buy a scratching post (or a wall-mounted scratching panel) from a pet shop. Most consist of a wooden pole around which rope is tightly coiled, fixed into a wooden base that is usually covered with carpet fabric (which I personally think may confuse a cat: if it’s encouraged to scratch the base of the scratching post, why not also your expensive Axminster?) Some incorporate a horizontal spur from which a ball on a string dangles, temptingly inviting play, and others support a platform on the top (ideal for kittens to leap on in play, although there is a risk that an older cat’s weight won’t be spread across it evenly, causing the apparatus to topple over). Note that a scratching post will become well worn from constant use and will therefore eventually have to be replaced, and also that when your cat is adult a scratching post should be as tall as possible to enable your feline to stretch up to enhance the stropping experience.

Finally, although theories vary as to why, all cats like to eat grass. In the absence of the real thing, an indoor cat may nibble at a house plant, so be a considerate owner and grow it a pot of indoor grass; grass seeds specifically recommended for feline consumption are stocked by many gardening outlets.

Skunk Botia; Hora’s Loach; Mouse Loach

Botia horae 90 mm 31 in. Indonesia : slow-moving waters. An attractive smaller Loach in this group. A grey/green body with a dark line running from the snout along the top of the back and crossing the body immediately in front of the caudal fin. The scales are very small, and fishes of this genus appear to have a matt finish. Some may have thin transverse lines on the flanks. The erectile spine is carried below the eye. A fairly active fish, but it may be timid if alone in a community collection. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: prefers worms and insect larvae, but will take dried foods, often in mid-water. Breeding: no information available.

Pakistani Loach; Reticulated Loach

Botia lohachata 110 mm 41 in. India and Pakistan : slow-moving waters. A very striking Loach. The body colour is silver/grey with Y-shaped dark markings on the flanks, interspersed with black blotches. The patterning is continued into the fins. An active fish, more so at evening times, which burrows under rocks and plants. Temperature:24^°C (75^°F). Diet: as for B. horae. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Clown Loach; Tiger Botia

Botia macracantha 200 mm 8 in. Indonesia : slow-moving waters. A very attractive fish. Three black bands encircle the bright orange body. The dorsal and anal fins are black with orange edges; the other fins are red, with streaks of black in the caudal fin. Susceptible to White Spot disease, and some sources suggest that medicants are not well tolerated. This species grows much larger in nature. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: as for B. horae. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium regularly, but spawning has been reported.

Chain Loach; Dwarf Loach

Botia sidthimunki 55 mm 21 in. Far East : slow-moving waters. The smallest of the Botias, this species has a gold body marked with a dark, chain-link pattern down to midway across the flanks. The lower links may join to form a horizontal line. The fins are clear, except for the caudal fin, which bears some patterning. Less timid than other Loaches, it enjoys the company of its own species. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: all foods. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Orange-finned Loach

Botia modesta 190 mm 7^,1 in. Malay peninsula, Thailand : slow-moving waters. Has a steel-blue/grey body with a vague dark blotch immediately in front of the caudal fin. The fins may be yellow or orange. Often confused with B. lecontei, but most sources agree that B. modesta is the stockier fish. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: as for B. horae. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Zebra Loach

Botia striata 85 mm 31 in. India : slow-moving waters. The body is covered in a large number of narrow, dark stripes. The snout is not so pointed as in other species. The fins are patterned. A slow-growing species. Fairly shy, often given up for dead due to its non-appearance, but a hardy fish. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: as for B. horae. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Kuhli Loach; Coolie Loach

Acanthophthalmus kuhli 110 mm 41 in. South-east Asia : streams and rivers. This genus gets its name, meaning ‘thorn-eye’, from the spine over the eye. It has a worm-like body, flattened laterally at the caudal peduncle, and an underslung mouth with barbels. A pink/yellow coloration, with two or three dark bands encircling the head and gill cover. A large number of dark bands (often split longitudinally) almost ring the rest of the body, but do not cover the belly. The fins are colourless. Frequents tangles of plant roots and may form a tangled mass with its brothers and sisters. Several species of Acanthophthalmus are available. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: worms, but will scavenge for other foods. Breeding: possible.

Nichols’ Loach

Noemacheilus nicholsi 65 mm 21 in. India, Far East : slow-moving waters. Has a cylindrical body shape, but its finnage is more conventional than in Acanthophthalmus. A number of vertical dark bands ring the red/brown body almost completely. A narrow, dark band crosses the caudal peduncle and there is a small, dark dot at the base of the dorsal fin. Fond of perching on its ventral and anal fins when at rest. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: worms preferred, but usual foods taken. Breeding: not yet bred in the aquarium.

Brochis splendens (coeruleus) 76 mm 3 in. South America : slow-moving waters. Has a flat ventral profile and an arched back. The dorsal fin is long- based. The fins are brownish, and the body colour bronze/green. Very similar to the Corydoras genus but generally larger; the length of the dorsal fin is conclusive evidence. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: all foods; worms relished. Breeding: has been bred ; probably follows Corydoras pattern.

Bronze Catfish

Corydoras aeneus 75 mm 3 in. South America : various waters. A very popular Catfish, from an equally popular genus. A yellow/ reddish/brown body with a dark blue-green metallic sheen on the head and running horizontally along the flanks. The fins are plain and red-brown. Females may be distinguished by the wider cross-section behind the pectoral fins when seen from above. This species often makes a sudden dash to the water surface to gulp air, which is then absorbed in the gut. It is always foraging for food around the aquarium floor and, as a result, the barbels may be worn away through constant digging. Smooth gravel should be used if a community of Corydoras is to be kept. Also, by keeping the fishes well fed, the need for them to dig for food will be obviated. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: all foods, but worms relished. Breeding: lays eggs on plant leaves or tank glass. Female carries fertilized eggs between ventral fins to selected spawning site. Addition of cooler water to the aquarium may induce spawning.

The other species of Corydoras (illustrated opposite) include the Elegant Catfish (C. elegans, 57 mm), the Dwarf, or Pygmy, Corydoras (C. hastatus, 25 mm), the Leopard Corydoras (C. ju/ii, 65 mm), the Black-spotted Corydoras (C. me/anistius, 65 mm), the Peppered Corydoras (C. paleatus, 75 mm) and Schwartz’s Corydoras (C. schwartzi, 65 mm).

Armoured Catfish; Hassar; Bubblenest Catfish

Callichthys callichthys 180 mm 74 in. South America : various waters. The body of this species has hardly any taper. Its head is fairly pointed, the barbels well developed. Two rows of overlapping plates cover the body. The caudal fin is rounded, and the first rays of the adipose, dorsal and pectoral fins are thickened into spines and may have a reddish tinge. Because this is a continually rummaging fish, the aquarium should have a filter system capable of dealing with the resulting suspended matter in the water. Temperature: 24°C(75°F). Diet.. all foods. Breeding: bubblenest builder among surface leaves of plants.

Port Hoplo; Atipa

Hoplosternum thoracatum 190 mm 71 in. South America : various waters. Has a thickset, almost cylindrical body, grey-brown in colour, with numerous dark blotches. The fins are similarly marked, the caudal fin being pale at the base and rounded. The barbels are long. A similar species is H. littorale, but this has a forked caudal fin. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: all foods. Breeding: bubblenest builder.

Stripe-tailed Catfish

Dianema uro‑striata 130 mm 51 in. Brazil : various waters. The streamlined body is grey-brown with some dark speckling. A dark line runs from the snout to the rear edge of the gill cover. The barbels are dark, and the adipose fin has a dark edge. The large, black and white caudal fin is horizontally striped. This fish is a midwater. swimmer. A similar species, D. longibarbis, lacks the spectacular caudal fin markings. Temperature: 24^°C (75^°F). Diet: all foods. Breeding: no details available.